RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR Merino Basic Tee Short Sleeve

Introduction

We aimed to create a T-shirt that you'll want to wear every day.

I discovered merino wool after I started mountain climbing.

"A wool T-shirt?!"

The feel is so fresh that I can't help but say, ``It feels so good!'' and it has now become an indispensable part of my daily life.

As you begin to engage in sweaty activities during the day, Merino wool's moisture-wicking properties kick in, wicking moisture away from the skin to keep it dry.
The comfort of not feeling sticky means you can go about your day in just one layer, which is a major benefit in reducing the need for extra clothes and luggage. In addition, the natural antibacterial and deodorizing properties mean you can enjoy a comfortable day on a trek or long-term outdoor trip without worrying about odors, so you can wash it less often and have more room to pack.

When the temperature drops in the evening and at night, this thin garment provides light insulation to protect your body from the cold.
It's designed to be worn under a shirt or hoodie without being bulky or restricting movement, allowing for smooth layering.

The "Short Sleeve" is perfect for spring and summer, as it feels like you're wearing it bare-skin.

The "Long Sleeve" is perfect as a base for layering in the fall and winter.

Both items are made from the same merino wool jersey, so if you have them in your wardrobe all year round, they will provide the same sense of security and comfort 365 days a year.

The material used is New Zealand Merino, which has clear traceability, maximizing the breathability and moisture-regulating properties unique to natural materials with a low environmental impact.

The Merino Basic Short Sleeve Tee will become your staple, whether you're walking around town in the clear air of a mountain morning, or just taking your everyday steps.

My encounter with Merino wool.

At the end of the summer of 2015, I made a plan to traverse the Northern Alps for seven days. I packed two completely different T-shirts, one made of 100% polyester with a special anti-odor treatment, and the other made of merino wool, which I was looking for a new level of comfort in. I decided to wear them alternately every day, comparing the two.

When I first set out on the dew-covered road, the polyester felt cool and light. However, as the sun rose higher, the slight smell of sweat started to bother me, and when the cold wind blew, I was chilled by the sweat. In contrast, merino wool was amazing at how it let out moisture as if it was breathing, and how it gently embraced my body heat. It didn't retain any odor, and it felt dry even after long periods of activity, so it felt just like a second skin.

This realization completely changed the way I geared up. Since that experience, I have always chosen merino wool for mountain trips that will last more than one night, and polyester T-shirts have been relegated to the back of my closet.

Then, in the fall of 2017, I walked the 340km John Muir Trail for 14 days. I carried two of the same merino wool T-shirts and rotated them by washing them in the river. They withstood the cold after the rain and the humidity of the deep forest, and when I changed into my base layer in the tent at night, I felt a sense of relief and exhilaration that was hard to put into words.

The true value of merino wool, which I have repeatedly verified, along with its natural moisture-regulating and odor-resistant properties, as well as its ability to gently envelop the body, have made it the most reliable and dependable of my outdoor gear.

RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR's "Basic" series

At RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR, we put a special emphasis on products named "Basic." As the name suggests, the "Basic" series is a group of products that pursue the essential elements of everyday life and the outdoors. This series is embodied in the design philosophy of "stripping away the unnecessary and leaving only what is truly necessary."

[Essential simplicity and functionality]

The name "Basic" embodies the idea of ​​eliminating decoration and focusing on necessary functions. Its simple and sophisticated design is intuitive and easy to use, reducing the burden on the user. In addition, the design can be used comfortably both outdoors and in everyday life, embodying the importance of being "basic". The essence of functionality is firmly alive in the simplicity.

[Ability to handle a wide range of applications]

The "Basic" series is not intended to be limited to a specific scene. Rather, it is characterized by its versatility, which blends naturally into a variety of situations, from everyday life to active outdoor activities. It is flexible to the user's style and purpose, and aims to be "usable not only for special occasions but also for everyday use." This series will become a trusted item in a wide range of situations.

Universal and long-lasting design

Another feature of the "Basic" series is its timeless design that is not affected by trends. We focus on designs and materials that will be loved for a long time, without being swayed by temporary trends. Furthermore, with a design that emphasizes durability, it is intended to be an item that will continue to accompany the user's daily life. Therefore, the attachment to the product deepens not from the moment of purchase, but as you continue to use it, and it becomes a product that naturally blends into your lifestyle.

The name "Basic" means more than just simplicity. It is a product that is close to the user and serves as a "foundation" that allows the user to be natural in any environment. As its name suggests, the RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR "Basic" series will continue to exist as a "foundation" that can be relied on at any moment.

Design

The word "Basic" in the product name represents the simplicity of eliminating all unnecessary elements.
It has a minimalist boxy silhouette, slightly dropped shoulders, and a width that is neither too wide nor too narrow. This allows for ample room around the shoulders and chest, while maintaining a straight line that falls straight down to the hem.
It combines ease of movement with a clean look.

The neck area is finished with a binder to prevent it from stretching as much as possible and to emphasize durability.

The "RIDGE" logo is printed on the left sleeve cuff.

A brand name tag is sewn onto the hem.

Another feature is that the shoulder seams, sleeve seams, and side seams are all flat seamed.

A "flat seam" is a method of sewing fabric together using a special sewing machine, as shown in the illustration above.

This is an image of the Merino Basic Tee being sewn using a flat seam machine at the factory where it is made.

As the name suggests, the seams of the fabric are finished very flat, minimizing stress on the skin. This manufacturing method is often used for sportswear and babywear because it produces strong seams.

Material

This product uses "REDA ACTIVE", made from 100% Merino wool from New Zealand.

The main characteristics of merino wool material include high thermal insulation, good breathability, moisture control, high odor resistance (antibacterial properties), heat resistance, and UV protection.
REDA, the company that produces the merino wool jersey used by RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR, is a long-established wool fabric manufacturer founded in Italy over 150 years ago.

The sheep are raised in a relaxed environment on REDA's vast farm in New Zealand.

The raw wool from these sheep is carefully knitted into yarn, and the yarn into fabric, at our own factory in Italy.

Merino wool is a natural fiber and even if it has been treated to prevent shrinkage, some shrinkage will still occur.
This is something that can't be helped, and I'm sure some of you have had the experience of buying a T-shirt or sweatshirt made from cotton, a natural fiber, and having it shrink by more than one size after washing.

Since it is a natural fiber, it is inevitable that the fabric will shrink when washed, but when making this T-shirt, we wanted to use a material that would minimize that shrinkage as much as possible.

1. Background

For this T-shirt product, we first created samples using merino wool jersey fabric from three different companies, and then repeatedly tested their performance by prototyping, wearing and washing them.

2. Issues with initial samples

Although all the manufacturers advertised their products as "washable wool," in reality I found that the fabric had shrunk by more than one size and had become distorted, and the quality was not up to my expectations.

3. Considering the benefits of synthetic fiber blends

To compensate for the weaknesses of wool products, such as shrinkage and low durability, there are many merino wool products on the market that are blended with nylon or polyester. These products do indeed reduce shrinkage when washed and have the advantage of being easy to handle on a daily basis.

4. Personal experience of wearing the product

I myself have worn synthetic blend merino T-shirts for a long time, but once the nylon parts started to deteriorate, I could no longer wear them comfortably until the end. I also felt that they could not compete with 100% merino products when it came to the "intrinsic high functionality of merino wool" such as odor resistance and heat retention. I have no intention of rejecting synthetic blends, but I strongly felt that I wanted to value the texture, functionality, and "the atmosphere that the material itself brings."

5. Final material selection

The result was "REDA ACTIVE," a high-performance material developed by the Italian company REDA, which has more than 150 years of experience and technology.

After wearing and washing it repeatedly for half a year, I realized that it was more comfortable to wear than any other fabric I had tried. It had less shrinkage and shape loss, and it fully demonstrated the inherent heat retention, breathability, and antibacterial properties of merino wool.

Features

1. Less fuzz and a soft texture

Merino wool is classified into various grades depending on the fineness (fineness) of the fibres in the yarn that makes up the fabric, and this fineness is expressed in µm (micrometres).
For the Merino Basic Tee, we used a very delicate 17.5μm (micrometer) yarn called "Super 120's", which gives it a soft texture with very little of the prickly feeling that is typical of wool.

2. Made with New Zealand Merino

The use of New Zealand Merino wool is proof that the wool is "non-mulesing wool." "Mulesing" refers to the process of removing the skin and flesh from the buttocks of lambs to prevent maggots from infesting the sheep.

Merino sheep, which have been bred to produce as much wool as possible, have a large skin surface area and deep wrinkles on their skin, which means that urine and feces tend to accumulate in the wrinkles around their buttocks and genitals, making it easy for maggots to breed. In the worst case scenario, the maggots can eat the skin and flesh, leading to death.
One way to prevent this is "mulesing," but this is done without anesthesia and the scars may not be treated.

In New Zealand, such cruel mulesing has been completely banned since October 2018 under the Animal Welfare (Care and Procedures) Regulations 2018. Violators are subject to fines of up to NZ$3,000 for individuals and up to NZ$15,000 for businesses.

*Current situation in Australia There are no laws banning mulesing across the country, and the practice itself is currently legal. However,

From 1 July 2020 in Victoria,

In Tasmania, from 1 July 2024:

The use of painkillers (anesthetics and analgesics) when mulesing is required by law.
In addition, according to the National Wool Declaration (NWD), in the 2023/24 season, approximately 21.5% of the total will be declared as "Non-Mulesed," and this proportion is increasing year by year.

3.100% merino wool yet washable.

The fabric has been treated with several shrink-proofing processes to minimize shrinkage after washing.
However, since it is a natural fiber, some shrinkage and warping will occur. Please refer to the care method below to use the product for a longer period of time.

・When washing, use detergent for wool.
・Turn the product inside out, place it in a laundry net and wash it alone.
- Water temperature should be limited to 40°C. Avoid washing with hot water.
- Avoid strong water flows when washing, and wash by hand or, if using a washing machine, use the "dry cycle" or "gentle water cycle".
- Never tumble dry.
・After dehydration, we recommend shaping the product and drying it in the shade.
-If you will not be wearing the item for a long period of time, make sure to remove any dirt and store it with an insect repellent.

Regarding skewing after washing

We have mentioned above the advantages of the merino wool jersey used in the Merino Basic Tee, but it also has disadvantages. One of them is the "skew".

The fabric used for this product is made from 60 count single yarn. Fluffy wool is twisted into yarn, which is then knitted into fabric.

When washed, the twisted yarn fibers swell and tend to return to the opposite direction of the twist, causing some twisting. As a result, the side and sleeve lines, which were straight before washing, may twist back and forth and droop. This is called "skewing."

The side seams, which were straight before washing, become twisted after washing.

Since the garment is made from single yarns made from natural fibers, this skewing is unavoidable, but it can be minimized by straightening the garment as much as possible to its original shape after washing and spin-drying before hanging it to dry.

The video below shows you how to make the Merino Basic Tee Short Sleeve look long and beautiful. Please take a look.

Spec

Material: 100% wool (merino wool)
Heather Charcoal = 145g/㎡
Others = 156g/㎡
Sizes: S, M, L, XL (Men) S, M, L (Women)
Weight: Men/M approx. 128g (Heather Charcoal) *There may be slight differences depending on the color.
Country of origin: Japan Producer: Tokyo Pio Aomori Factory Co., Ltd., Tsugaru City, Aomori Prefecture

Size Chart

Please note that this product is available in both men's and women's sizes.

There is not much difference in the overall silhouette between the men's and women's sizes, but the women's sizes have a silhouette that is more suited to the female body type, such as the length and shoulder width.

Please refer to the size chart below for details.

The above numbers are in cm.

*Please note that there may be slight differences in measurements depending on the location of the measurement.
*Please note that the product may shrink slightly after washing.

Size Guide [Men]

Size Guide [Women]

Collaborator

Collaborateur introduces you to the people who produce these products.

Tokyo PiO Aomori Factory Co., Ltd.

Tokyo PiO Aomori Factory is located in Tsugaru City, Aomori Prefecture.
I visited the factory in October. It was a very warm and calm day. The person in charge of the factory who was driving me there said, "It's a rare nice day."
On the way from Aomori Airport to the factory, the symbolic Mt. Iwaki of Aomori Prefecture was clearly visible. It seemed unusual. The apple orchards filled with bright red apples were also very symbolic, and we were given lots of large apples as souvenirs on the way home.

The Aomori Factory here mainly sews cut and sewn items, but also sews some other woven products.

Still, they are skilled at handling cut and sew items.
The above image shows the process before the fabric is cut. To make it easier to cut the long fabric, it is layered like millefeuille fabric.
This fabric was a very thin gauze jersey fabric. It stretched even with a slight pull. I had to cut this difficult-to-handle fabric, lining it up as evenly as possible with the same tension. It gave me a headache just watching it...

What was particularly impressive was the large number of different special sewing machines installed for sewing cut-and-sew items.

The photo shows a "flat seam sewing machine" that can sew a special type of sewing called a flat seam. Simply put, it creates a flat finish without any rough seam allowances at the seams.

This sewing method is often used for underwear and baby wear because it is less stressful on the skin as there is no roughness in the seam allowance. However, this flat seam takes much longer than a regular lock stitch. It takes about two to three times longer. But I love this flat seam and it is the sewing method that RIDGE MOUNTAIN GEAR uses for cut material products.

The image above shows the actual product, "Merino Basic Tee Long Sleeve", being sewn.
The fabric is then joined from both sides and placed on the thin arm of the sewing machine to sew together. This fabric is particularly thin and flexible, so the customer said it was "very difficult to sew...". Even so, they took their time and sewed it carefully.

Not all cut and sew factories are capable of sewing this flat seam technique.
Many factories do not have these sewing machines, and it takes skill to actually operate them. I have heard people say, "We lost our craftsmen and now we can't operate the flat seamers."

Tokyo Pio Co., Ltd. was founded in 1971 in Sumida Ward as a small company with just two people, handling everything from sewing to delivery. After that, orders gradually increased, and from the Showa era to the Heisei era, the company manufactured many products for major apparel companies and department stores, but as times changed and cheaply made overseas products became more common, the company continues to research high quality, with pride in producing purely Japanese products, and with the accumulated technical skills and confidence.

Pio Aomori Factory, which is also the base of our domestic sewing factories, began operations in 1999 with the encouragement and invitation of Kizukuri Town in Aomori Prefecture, with the aim of revitalizing local industry and employment.

We analyze the brand image and the particular points of the products we handle, and determine the desired final product. We submit first samples, make adjustments, and produce with customer satisfaction in mind.

In addition, by stretching, cutting, sewing, and finishing in a way that matches the material selected by the customer, we can avoid putting strain on the fabric and ensure a beautiful finish. It may sound cliché, but we make our products with love for the fabric and the products. We pay close attention to even the parts that cannot be seen.

We hope to raise awareness of our factory as a 100% Japanese-made cut and sew manufacturer, and to spread the word about the quality of Japanese-made products to each apparel brand. When it comes to cut and sew factories in Tohoku, there is the PIO Group (Kadota Factory, Aomori Factory), and we would like to continue to work hard and improve every day.

Tokyo Pio Co., Ltd. Aomori Factory 〒038-3164
1-12 Yayoita, Shibata, Tsugaru City, Aomori Prefecture
https://www.tokyopio.co.jp/index.html

Attention

If you take care of this product with the following points, you can use it for a long time.

・When washing, use detergent for wool.
・Turn the product inside out, place it in a laundry net and wash it alone.
- Water temperature should be limited to 40°C. Avoid washing with hot water.
- Avoid strong water flows when washing, and wash by hand or, if using a washing machine, use the "dry cycle" or "gentle water cycle".
- Never tumble dry.
・After dehydration, we recommend shaping the product and drying it in the shade.
-If you will not be wearing the item for a long period of time, make sure to remove any dirt and store it with an insect repellent.