Omine Okugake Trail Non-stop traverse May 2025

Introduction: Why did I choose this path?
About the No Stay Challenge Style
The journey and memorable scenes (first half)
The journey and memorable scenes (middle part)
The journey and memorable scenes (second half)
The "strength" and "excitement" of the Omine Okugake Trail
Equipment and supply ideas (first half)
Equipment and supply ideas (second half)
To those who wish to walk this path

Introduction: Why did I choose this path?

It is part of the World Heritage Site "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range," and many people will feel that it is a special path that is different from ordinary mountain trails. It is not just a mountain climb, but has the uniqueness and mystique of a "path of training." The rigor of the path, the majestic nature, and the depth of the mountain. I was fascinated by all of this, and I always wanted to complete it someday.

The course is approximately 100km long with a cumulative elevation gain of approximately 8,000m.

About the No Stay Challenge Style

Generally, the standard time for this journey is 6 days and 5 nights, but why did I decide to attempt this without staying overnight? To be honest, I don't have a clear reason. However, I think the influence of my favorite YouTube channel, " Akakon Sports ," may have been a big factor. There is a video of the attempt without staying overnight, and it is definitely worth a watch.

Omine Okugake Trail Non-stop Traverse 2022 Autumn

I believe I have the physical and mental strength to take on the challenge. And I feel a sense of awe for the mysterious and deep mountains. I wonder how far my body and mind can take me. It's a mixture of these two feelings. It's completely different from the feeling of competing for speed in a trail running race.

Also, everyone who attempts a non-stop traverse is uniformly cool. Many of them are runners, but they are not just fast; they seem to have the strength to be self-sufficient in any situation. The strength they possess is coolness that is in a different vector from "speed" as a sport. I hope to get even a little closer to that strength. It's not about how fast you can go, but the experience of walking this path itself that is of irreplaceable value. There are risks in pushing yourself in deep mountains, not just on the Omine Okugake Trail. That's why it's more important than anything to walk with ease.

One day, while drinking with Mr. O, we were talking about how we wanted to do a non-stop traverse of the Omine Okugake Trail in 2025. We talked about how Mr. O had also attempted it in the past and failed. We decided to coordinate our schedules and give it a try.

The journey and memorable scenes (first half)

The weather forecast was for rain. Two days before, there were reports of heavy rainfall that would trigger a warning, so I was thinking of changing my plans to go to a nearby mountain depending on the situation. However, the forecast gradually changed, and the front had moved further east than expected, so the possibility of heavy rain became less likely.

So we decided to leave as scheduled. However, we left earlier to allow for some time to halt or retreat in case the weather worsened. We left at 7:30 p.m. It was raining. We put on our rain gear tops and bottoms, got some caffeine in our bodies with canned coffee, and started the day. From Yoshino Station, we walked on a paved road for a while.

When I passed a car, the driver's expression in the headlights looked suspicious. It was only natural, considering we were heading to the mountain at this time of night, and in the rain. The rain didn't stop, but it wasn't that strong. It was as predicted, and in fact it was calmer than expected. At this rate, it seemed like we'd be able to continue without any problems.

Once we entered the mountain trail, we climbed comfortably for a while. However, the rain had made the road surface very slippery on the way down. If you use light equipment and run in a forward leaning position, taking your feet off the ground the moment you land, you can proceed without falling even on slippery roads. I usually do that. However, this time I was walking the Omine Okugake Trail. The distance was long, and the texture of the rocks and stones was different from that of the Satoyama. The thickness of the tree roots was also completely different. Even though I had kept my equipment to a minimum, it was still quite heavy. Damage to the feet can easily accumulate when going downhill in the rain, so I narrowed my stance and proceeded while minimizing the strain.

About four and a half hours after we started walking, we arrived at the Women's Barrier Gate at the Fifth Pass. Soon the rain started to get heavier. The wind was also quite strong. My companion, Mr. O, was wearing shorts and was shivering, naturally saying "it's cold". We stopped at Horatsuji Teahouse to change clothes and refuel. I also took off my sweat-soaked base layer and changed into an Alpha Direct hoodie. I realized once again that Alpha Direct is a truly excellent material. It warms a wet body, but doesn't get steamy. I think it's safe to say that active insulation is a must-have for mountaineering in this day and age.

The journey and memorable scenes (middle part)

The rain continued to be strong for a while after this, and the water flowed on the hiking trail, like a small stream. Before I knew it, morning came. There were still clouds in the sky, but the rain had stopped. Just as predicted. The temperature was rising, so I took off only the top layer of my rainwear and continued on.

As we got closer to Mt. Daifugen, the number of sections where we had to go over chains and along cliff edges increased. This section required not only physical strength but also mental strength. Finally, we arrived at the Misen hut, and for the first time in a long while, we were able to have something warm to eat. Thankfully, they also sold non-alcoholic beer. Of course, we couldn't drink alcohol, but non-alcoholic beer at this timing really touched my heart. It was more than enough of an emotional experience.

Here we took off our rain pants and changed our socks. Taking care of the soles of our feet and toes is extremely important for the rest of the journey. After that, we passed several chain sections and difficult spots, and prayed to the Buddha statue at Shakagatake. By the time we continued on and arrived at Shinsenjuku, we could see a change in the condition of Mr. O, who was accompanying us. He complained of pain in his lower back and started making more despondent comments. It seemed that he was starting to consider escaping.

Now was the time to decide whether to go ahead or retreat. Once on the Minami-Okugake Trail, it would be extremely difficult to escape. They were usually only joking around with each other, but this time they were serious. They certainly didn't have much time to spare. If they went ahead, now was the time; if they retreated, they would have to bivouac at this hut. There must have been some conflict, but Mr. O decided to "go ahead." However, he then fell on a downhill climb that would normally be no problem. His back also seemed to be in considerable pain. It was getting dark, so they set off with headlamps on. The risk underfoot was increasing.

There were large rocks buried in the ground on the downward slope, wet from the rain and covered with moss. I took a side path to avoid the rocks, but Mr. O tried to continue on with his foot on the rock. I called out "Danger!" and asked him to move away. It was a situation that Mr. O would normally be able to make without hesitation. He is a man of experience and leg strength. That is how close he was to his limit. Then, at Heiji-juku, it was decided that he "could not proceed." He was not completely unable to move, but if he continued on this way there was a high risk of reaching his limit on the route. Before that happened, he made the decision to retreat here. He planned to rest at the inn for the night, and the next morning to descend the mountain via a relatively safe route that avoided the difficult areas and catch the bus.

Other people might have descended the mountain together, but Mr. O is the type who hates that the most. He is basically self-contained and only cooperates with others when necessary. He is also calm enough to choose to retreat before reaching his limit. The road after the escape is long, but most of it is paved. No problem. That's why I had to make a decision quickly if I was going to go forward. After confirming that it was safe, I decided to go ahead.

The journey and memorable scenes (second half)

After I became a solo climber, I proceeded through the darkness of night. Thinking about it, this was just my usual style. Rather than being scared, I sharpened my senses and concentrated to avoid danger. Although no special techniques were required for climbing chain sections, collapsed areas, or cliff edges, when I was tired, I could not help but imagine the risks. For example, if I was tired and tried to maintain three-point support on a chain section, I would exert unnecessary force and cramp, which could lead to a serious accident. To prevent this, I proceeded without losing concentration. If I had basic climbing skills, I could avoid these risks to some extent.

The process so far has left me with very little time to spare. I pick up the pace as much as I can and run where I can. I finally arrive at Tamaki Shrine just after 6am. I've somehow managed to secure some time to spare. All that's left is to head to the main shrine.

There were worshippers around Tamaki Shrine, and I felt like I had come down to earth. Perhaps it was the sense of security that made me relax, but the journey from here felt the most difficult this time. The altitude was low, and there were signs of people. Still, this path was also a Shugendo trail, and there were many small ups and downs. The temperature was rising and it was hot. I wasn't sleepy, but my hallucinations were getting worse.

Even though you think you've walked more than 10km, in reality you've only gone 5km. Even though you think you've walked for two hours, less than an hour has passed. But the hallucinations during daylight hours are strangely enjoyable. Dead trees and rocks in the distance look like people or animals, and they even seem to be moving. They don't look vague, but clearly look like people. It's only when you get closer that you realize you're hallucinating. After hallucinating again and again, it becomes more and more interesting. You can't help but imagine, "Who will I see next?" and "What am I really seeing?"

I had a hallucination of camping in a military tent. I thought this couldn't possibly be a hallucination, but when I got closer, I realized it was. Of course. However, it was so real that I could clearly see the fire pit, even though there were no people there. That was impressive.

The most surprising thing was the hallucination of children. There was a child around 10 years old and a toddler, and as I approached, thinking it couldn't be, I saw my daughters there. They were playing with their mother, laughing and moving around. I knew in my head that couldn't be right. But no matter how I looked, they looked like my daughters. When I got close, I finally realized that it was a fallen tree.

Even in that state, if I kept walking, I would eventually arrive there. I had plenty of time, so I continued moving forward without rushing. Finally, I reached a place where the Kumano River came into view. I could see the main shrine. Just a little bit more. The hallucinations continued, but they weren't scary, they were just gentle. In fact, I found them enjoyable.

Finally, I reached the Kumano River. However, the dam was releasing water due to yesterday's rain. I couldn't cross it no matter what I did. I took a detour and headed for Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine. I arrived safely. I was done. The first thing I looked for was beer. When I finally did drink it, it was delicious, but it didn't go down as well as usual. I bought bread and ice cream at the convenience store and got on the bus to head home.

In total, it took about 40 and a half hours. There were times when it rained a lot, but the wind was strong until the end. Since the rain made it difficult to keep up the pace, I had time to spare, so I ate the following snacks.
Persimmon seeds 1000kcal, peanuts 200kcal, biscuits 100kcal, Baumkuchen 200kcal, 1/2 Mana Bar 100kcal, instant noodles 400kcal, chicken ramen 380kcal, Satake pasta 200kcal, coke 45kcal. Total 2600kcal. It doesn't add up to the amount of activity, but I had a lot of leftover food because that's all I ate.

The "strength" and "excitement" of the Omine Okugake Trail

More than the technical difficulty, there were many moments when I felt the mental toughness. It was completely different from ordinary mountain trails or tourist climbs, and I felt like I was being pushed away and tested. Especially after I was alone, the wind was strong, the scenery was covered in clouds and fog, and I couldn't see anything. I just walked. During that time, the word "training" made sense to me.

On the other hand, the route itself is carefully marked, so you can proceed without looking at the map. That's why you tend to let your guard down even in places you're sure of your way. The more tired you are, the more you need to check the map at forks in the road. Complacency is fatal. As I continued to walk deep in the mountains, I felt as if I was becoming one with nature. The moment dawn broke, the warm sunlight, and the distant mountains. I felt a strange sense of elation at the fact that the place I was in was a world far removed from my everyday life.

Equipment and supply ideas (first half)

In terms of food, water, and layering, I tried to keep it light but not too strenuous. The basic rule was to "walk at a comfortable speed." This reduced water consumption and allowed me to plan my food intake without excess or deficiency. The amount needed varied depending on the section of water, but for some people 1L was enough, while for others 2L was not enough. It's reassuring to carry a lot, but water is very heavy. The amount needed can only be determined from experience and the itinerary, but in the first half of May, I think 2L or less will be enough for most people.

When selecting clothing, performance was given top priority. The rainwear is made by Finetrack, which has a good balance between light weight and water repellency. The new model is functional, has a simple design, and is easy to wear. The rain pants are Trail Bum. They have a wide thigh width, so they are easy to wear over long pants, and the pockets are perfectly positioned. They were very easy to use. I mainly wear these pants when I'm not running.

I had prepared shorts, but I didn't use them this time. I was wearing Teton Bros. scrambling pants, and these pants are really great for security. The fabric is thin and breathable, but it's hard to tear even if it rubs against the rocks. The slim silhouette makes it easy to move your legs. Many people choose shorts because of the heat, but with these pants I hardly noticed the heat.

To cope with the temperature difference between the ridgeline at an altitude of nearly 2,000m and the village at nearly 0m, the tops were layered in detail. The base was a mesh wool tank top from Icebreaker, followed by a hoodie from milestone, then the RIDGE Alpha Hoodie and a wind shell from Tilak. I layered one to three layers flexibly depending on the temperature and wind. People often say that "the hoods get congested," but in reality, all of them were useful. I could adjust them according to the wind, temperature, and amount of movement, and each hood worked reliably.

Equipment and supply ideas (second half)

The shoes used are Merrell's MTL LONG SKY 2. They dry by far the fastest of all the trail running shoes currently on the market. They drain water well and dry quickly, so even if they get wet, it's not too uncomfortable. The sole is a little thin, so it feels one with the road, and the upper is also less likely to tear, so it gives you a sense of security.

I brought five pairs of socks in total and used them all. If I hadn't brought them, I might have given up midway. 70% of the route was in the rain, and my shoes were always wet. Willpower alone can't fix problems with the soles of my feet. Changing socks regularly and resetting my feet was the key to continuing.

Gloves are essential not only for warmth, but also for gripping chains or trees, or to prevent injury in the event of a fall. Although they are not waterproof, they dry quickly and can be used safely. Not having to worry about getting wet is also a great mental relief.

The backpack is SAMAYA's Ultra Pace. It fits snugly to the body and doesn't shake much. It feels stable, as if it's a part of the body. The fabric is made of Dyneema and the seams are sealed, so water won't get in. Although there is a risk of the seams deteriorating, the waterproofing is very high, so I was able to use it with confidence even in bad weather like this time.

The headlamp is Milestone's mi-i1. The overall balance of brightness, battery life, color temperature, etc. is very good. If you plan to be active at night, I once again felt that this equipment is essential.

To those who wish to walk this path

If you are a mountain hiker, there is a trail you would want to walk all the way through at least once. That trail is the Omine Okugake Trail. It will be an irreplaceable experience that will enrich your life. However, you need to be fully prepared in terms of your physical strength, skills, and planning.

This challenge may seem reckless to most people. But I was able to act with ease and I don't remember pushing myself too hard. The next day, my legs felt a little heavy, but I didn't have any muscle pain.

Some people may not be able to complete the course in 5-6 nights, while others can complete the course in under 20 hours. The important thing is to set a schedule that suits your physical strength and skill level. Whatever your style, you will need above-average physical strength.

If you are aiming to do a thru-hike, it is a good idea to maintain your basic physical strength by jogging on a daily basis, and to train by going up and down mountains with a certain amount of luggage on your back. It is also recommended to familiarize yourself with the basics of three-point support at a climbing gym. The selection of equipment is also important. It is not good to focus too much on weight reduction, nor to pack too much luggage. It is necessary to find a balance that suits you. However, I think that the time spent thinking about various things and making preparations for this is already part of the journey.