From Koyasan to Kumano Sanzan: A record of my 120km journey connecting the Kumano Kodo Kohechi and Nakahechi trails on foot.
Introduction
This year’s Golden Week, I had planned to walk the Omine Okugake Trail. I walked it last year, but I wanted to challenge it again this year.
However, the weather forecast indicated that the rain on the day would be too heavy, so we decided to change the route to Kohechi. The intensity as a mountain trail is different. To be honest, I felt a little more relaxed when the change was decided.
Another thing on my mind was the members for this trip.
We had a tough and interesting group. There was a possibility we’d push too hard from the start. Someone might get worn out following that pace. While that has a certain appeal, I went to Koyasan thinking about how I would act, balancing enjoyment with a level head.
Starting from Koyasan: Anticipation and anxiety for a long night
We departed from Koyasan.
The basic plan was to keep moving and walk 120km, but the forecast predicted heavy rain for the next day, so we also considered using an emergency shelter. We knew it would be a long two-day night. It was a mix of anxiety about that night and a certain expectation.
Before starting, in Koyasan, I met members of the Mountain Gourmet Lab. They were walking the Kohechi route slowly, staying several nights. We were walking the same path, but our itineraries, paces, and goals were completely different. We chatted together on the bus heading to the start of the Kohechi route. It was a peaceful time before embarking on the same journey.
The Mountain Gourmet Lab members had a lot of alcohol and delicious-looking food. I was envious.
After getting off the bus, our respective journeys began.
I intentionally made my gear heavy. There was also the meaning of increasing the load for training. I deliberately didn't bring poles this time. I started walking with the other members. I thought it would be a long night.
Kumano Kodo Kohechi: A trail where settlements and World Heritage meet
We entered Kohechi. A night trail seems the same everywhere, but there are things you feel in specific places. We proceeded carefully, checking the trail markers. A group with headlamps in the dark of night looked somewhat peculiar.
I encountered staff who had been walking the Kohechi route a day before us. They said the NEMO TANI was like a hotel.
What left an impression on me was the presence of settlements. These scattered villages coexist naturally within the World Heritage trail. There are human lives deep in the mountains, and the ancient path runs alongside them. It wasn't like a tourist-developed area; there was a sense of the trail and the settlements being naturally connected.
There were many people camping. People who walk at a leisurely pace, taking several nights, were everywhere. There are people walking the same path with completely different paces and purposes. I thought that was characteristic of the Kumano Kodo. We were in a hurry. Nevertheless, the atmosphere of this path was conveyed regardless of our walking speed.
The Yoshimura family windbreak is breathtaking
Kumano Hongu Taisha
After traversing Kohechi, we arrived at Kumano Hongu Taisha. I had been here many times. Yet, seeing Hongu Taisha after walking all the way from Koyasan on my own feet was truly special. I was happy.
Drawing energy from the trees. It somehow revitalizes you.
I also met some acquaintances. Unexpectedly, it gave my tired body a little boost.
Hongu Taisha was filled with many hikers, tourists, and foreigners. A scene unique to a World Heritage site. People of different nationalities, purposes, and paces gathered in the same place.
It started raining at Hongu Taisha. We prepared for the next leg of the journey. Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha were still ahead. This was still the halfway point of our journey connecting the three Kumano Sanzan shrines on foot. After preparing, we started walking again.
Nakahechi: Night rain on Dokiri-zaka, 1km feels exceptionally long
We entered Nakahechi. I had mistakenly thought Nakahechi would be easier. That was naive.
There are two major climbs: Kogunotori-goe and Ogumotori-goe. The footing isn't bad, but they are quite long. Due to the rain, we often had to avoid puddles, and we continued steadily in the dim light. Around Kogunotori-goe, everyone's chatter became less frequent.
I used a poncho for rainwear. However, ponchos get stuffy. I'd get soaked with sweat from the inside, and eventually something would get wet. It's good for slow walking, but not suitable for a day like today.
The plan to rest in the emergency shelter also had a negative effect on my mood. It was a sign of complacency, you could say. There was no need to rush the climb. Perhaps due to this complacency, my spirits became heavy before my body did.
Ogumotori-goe was even tougher. Especially Dokiri-zaka. It was a steep climb where it took dozens of minutes to cover 1km. The night on Dokiri-zaka remains in my memory as the toughest part of this journey.
Emergency Shelter: A stormy night, what if there was no hut?
After crossing Dokiri-zaka, we arrived at the emergency shelter.
It was raining quite a bit. Upon entering the hut, we immediately changed our clothes completely. Putting on dry clothes after being wet felt great. We ate something warm and got ourselves in order. The forecast said the rain would stop around 3 or 4 AM, so we planned to rest until then and depart at 4.
I was exhausted. There wasn't much talking. Before I knew it, I had fallen asleep.
In the middle of the night, I woke up to the sound of wind and heavy rain. It was impossible to walk outside. The rain was so severe that I wondered what would have happened if this emergency shelter hadn't been there.
At dawn, the rain subsided and we departed.
From here, it's basically downhill, but the wind is strong and the path is like a river. However, thanks to the nap, both my body and mind are full of energy. We progressed easily, following a path characteristic of the Kumano Kodo.
To Nachi and Hayatama: A path that feels close yet far
By the time we reached Nachi Taisha, it was getting a bit warm, the weather was good, and the wind had died down. Due to yesterday's rain, the Nachi Falls had an amazing volume of water. It was quite impressive.
The path from Nachi Taisha to Hayatama Taisha was mostly on the road. Would we make it to the bus if we walked? No, it would be a close call? Halfway through, it felt like we wouldn't make it. The bus time was approaching. We also wanted to take a bath. No time. Naturally, we all started running.
We were able to refresh ourselves at a natural hot spring along the way.
Inside my soaking wet shoes, the soles of my feet were burning. I felt like blisters and calluses were forming. Running on the road in that state was quite tough.
Since we had brought sandals, everyone changed into Luna sandals or warachi and started running. Road running in sandals can easily cause damage. Still, it was better than shoes. It was quite tough, but everyone finished running.
We arrived at Hayatama Taisha. Here too, I unexpectedly met acquaintances. Walking the Kumano Kodo, you meet someone somewhere. It was that kind of trip.
Afterward, we took a bath, ate a seafood rice bowl, and drank beer. The seafood rice bowl and beer after walking 120km were exceptional. It was a time mixed with fatigue, a sense of accomplishment, and cold beer. Nothing more was needed.
About gear and activity style
I intentionally made my gear heavy this time. The purpose was to increase the load for training. I also deliberately didn't bring poles. As a result, the physical burden increased. I was quite tired, but that was also the goal.
I wondered why I decided to make it heavier, but I packed extra clothes. At that moment in the emergency shelter, changing from wet clothes to dry ones brought immense happiness. For long activities, it makes a difference mentally and physically to be able to change clothes rather than continuing in wet ones. However, this increases the weight.
The presence of sandals was also significant. They proved useful for the road section from Nachi to Hayatama and on the train ride home. Switching to sandals was effective for feet that had been in wet shoes for a long time. Gear selection varies depending on the style and content of the trip. This time, it was a blend of travel and training, so I opted for this style, but for more challenging endeavors, I would cut down on luggage.
Also, what I liked most about this style was the layering of hoods. The combination of a thin base layer and a wind shell is easy to adapt to various weather conditions. Patagonia's Capilene Cool Ultra, released this year, is very thin and highly breathable. It's thin enough to be used as sun protection. Even so, it provides some warmth when the wind blows, and there are environments where this alone is helpful during activity. Furthermore, if you wear a wind shell over it, the degree of warmth increases. Since it's very thin, you can use just the wind shell's hood without the base layer's hood. It's thin enough not to be bothersome even when both hoods aren't up.
Capilene Cool Ultra is Patagonia's thinnest Capilene ever. Extremely convenient.
The Kumano Kodo as a journey
What I think when walking the Kumano Kodo is the intensity of the journey.
There are mountains, settlements, rivers, waterfalls, and the sea. The ancient path and human life coexist in close proximity. It's different from just walking in the mountains. There's a sense of tracing a path that has continued as a place of worship with your own feet. I felt that this message came through, whether walking fast or slow, in their own unique ways.
There are distances that can only be reached by walking. I felt this physically by connecting Koyasan to Kumano Sanzan.
If I were to walk it again, I think I'd go for the no-stay style again. There's a special time in the mountains at night that only exists at night. If it weren't for those times—the tough night on Dokiri-zaka and the stormy night in the emergency shelter—the memories of this journey wouldn't be as vivid.
The Kumano Kodo is easy to walk. It's a path that can be entered in various styles, whether camping, fastpacking, running, or walking. I think many people are interested, so I definitely encourage you to walk it.
Total Distance 123.2km / Cumulative Elevation Gain 5,630m / Total Elapsed Time 37 hours 22 minutes
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