Koyabji Trail tent camping, 2 nights, 3 days. Starting from Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha
Introduction
Hello, this is Shiina, a staff member at ROCK STEPPERS. I usually enjoy anything related to the mountains, be it trail running, hiking, or climbing. At the store, I mainly handle customer service, but I also spend a lot of time out in the field myself. I plan to use this blog to write about the gear I've used and the trails I've walked.
For this year's Golden Week, my original plan was to hike the Omine Okugake Trail. It was a route I had always dreamed of, and I had been making preparations. However, just before my departure, I received news that the weather would be bad, so I abruptly changed my plans to Kohechi the night before. I switched my mindset, deciding to save the Omine Okugake Trail for another time, and headed to Koyasan the next morning.
My partner for this trip was a mountain veteran, a very strong woman who has completed 100-mile races multiple times. We carried our tents together and hiked over mountain passes.
This was my first time spending two nights camping in the mountains. There were some unknowns, but I set off, looking forward to that as well.
The Kohechi Trail
The Kohechi is a route of the Kumano Kodo that runs from Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha, spanning just under 70km. It is said to be the second most challenging route after the Omine Okugake Trail. Before I started, I was mentally prepared for a tough hike.
However, once I actually set foot on it, "enjoyable" came to mind before "challenging." There are numerous scattered villages, allowing you to walk while observing ordinary life continuing in the deep mountains. With fewer paved roads and a higher proportion of trails, the terrain always keeps things interesting.
One thing I realized while walking was that the Kumano Kodo is a trail that mostly crosses passes, rather than summiting peaks. While mountain climbing aims for the summit, the Kumano Kodo traverses passes, which are the lowest points, the saddles between mountains. The purpose isn't to climb mountains, but to reach a destination for worship, and passes were chosen as the easiest routes. Once I understood that there's a destination, and mountains are just along the way, my perspective on the path changed slightly.
About the Hatenashi Village
Out of the three days of walking, the section from Hatenashi Village to Hatenashi Pass left the strongest impression.
After crossing Miura Pass and descending to Totsuka Village, we climbed back up towards Hatenashi Pass. Hatenashi Village is located along this path. The trail alternated between stone pavements and tree roots, displaying the very scenery that comes to mind when people speak of "Kumano Kodo-like" landscapes.
What made it special was that people still live in the village. There were private homes, a sense of life. In the heart of a World Heritage site, ordinary life continues to this day. It felt like a living path, different from a place developed purely for tourism.
It felt like what I had imagined about the "Kumano Kodo" finally became real there. Hearing "World Heritage site" often makes it feel like a distant story, but here, life and the path were seamlessly connected.
Night 2: Pitching a Tent in a Downpour
The first night was calm, and I slept well in the tent. The problem was the second night.
As night fell, strong winds and rain combined, making tent setup quite difficult. It was a torrential downpour, about 14mm per hour, with strong winds. Even trying to set up the poles in the rain, things didn't go as planned. Just as I was wondering what to do, a European hiker nearby called out to us.
"It's better to assemble it inside that hut and then move it."
He told us about a small hut nearby called Kannon-do and helped us with the setup. We assembled the poles and shaped the tent inside the hut, then carried it outside. Thanks to that procedure, setup finished sooner than expected.
The tent we used was the NEMO TANI. Divided between two people, it weighed about 600g per person, was simple to set up, and stayed waterproof even in the downpour. Its vertical wall design made the interior feel spacious, allowing us to spend a comfortable night even during the storm. That time, setting up the tent with the help of a stranger and enduring the strong wind and rain, remains the most vivid memory of the three days.
Day 3 Morning: To Kumano Hongu Taisha
On the third day, I woke up around 4 AM, and the rain from the previous night had just stopped.
It was a bit chilly, but we put on our rain gear and set off. Soon after we started walking, our bodies warmed up, and we took off the rain gear after a while. After crossing Hatenashi Pass and descending, we arrived at Kumano Hongu Taisha around 8 AM. Throughout the three days, we covered the distance more smoothly than expected.
My senior was very strong on uphill climbs, maintaining a steady pace even on steep ascents. There were times I couldn't keep up, but she would wait for me, and we managed to progress without too much strain. Since I regularly run trails, I didn't feel particularly physically exhausted.
We paid our respects at the four upper shrines enshrined at Hongu Taisha, and then also visited Ouyunohara, the former site of the shrine. Paying respects after arriving on foot felt a bit different from coming by car. It felt like the effort of covering this distance on my own feet lingered somewhere. A friend picked us up, and after refreshing ourselves with a hot spring and a meal, we headed home. We also managed to scout the Kumano River for next year, so the image for our next adventure is becoming a little more concrete.
What I Brought (Supplement)
My backpack was the Gossamer Gear Type-2 Grit 28L. Excluding water, my packing weighed a little over 6kg, but I didn't experience any shoulder or hip pain throughout the three days. The wide shoulder straps and the two chest straps effectively distributed the load. The large front mesh pocket was also useful for storing items I wanted to access quickly while on the move.
For clothing, I primarily used STATIC's Adjust Shirt and maunawear's Octa shirt. The Octa was excellent for temperature regulation while active, and it dried quickly even when I sweated, so I could wear it for all three days. Active insulation is practically essential; I highly recommend getting one if you don't have it already!
On the second day, I managed the rain with a Teton Bros FeatherRain Jacket and Trail Bum rain pants. Both are lightweight and easy to handle. The Trail Bum rain pants are a bit wider, making them easy to put on and take off.
I used poles from the start. I believe poles are very advantageous for long-distance hikes, not just on the Kumano Kodo. Especially when carrying a load, they significantly reduce fatigue by providing both propulsion and stability. For a heavy trip like this one, having poles made it more enjoyable.
On a minor note, I brought one pair of thick wool pile socks. These were for sleeping, but also served as a backup in case my hiking socks got wet. They weren't stuffy in the sleeping bag, and I was comfortable the next morning. There are quite a few options available in-store, so please take a look.
Conclusion
The Kumano Kodo Kohechi felt more like a journey than a mountain climb. We walked through villages, crossing mountain passes. Although this route was a last-minute change, its atmosphere suited me well. My desire to hike the Omine Okugake Trail still remains, and I look forward to it next time.
Even for two women tent camping, I felt it's a route that can be enjoyed with proper preparation. However, those who are regularly active will likely have an easier time. Feel free to consult us at the store about gear if you have any questions!