Introduction

My name is Shiina and I work at the shop only on weekends. I'm a 25-year-old girl who has been climbing for roughly 7 years and loves climbing and hiking. I also do trail running.

This time I took on the solo challenge of hiking up Sakasaba Kaido in one night, so I'd like to share my mountain climbing record with you!

Reasons for taking on the challenge (Why Saba Kaido? Why solo?)

On my 25th birthday, I decided to challenge myself to a solo mountain climb, which was on my bucket list. I wanted to try something that would push me to my limits, something not so easy. At that time, I saw a post by Sota, who I usually use as a reference for choosing mountains, where he was camping out in simple equipment like a helium bivy, and I intuitively thought, "This style is cool!" That was the trigger.

It was my first time walking such a long distance solo, and my first time staying overnight alone, and it was also my first time sleeping outdoors, so it was a completely unknown challenge for me.

I chose the "Saba Kaido". One reason was that I used to live in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, and the starting point was a familiar place. It's one of the easiest long trails to access in Kinki, and although two nights is a bit scary, it's a distance that seems doable in one night. And above all, being able to see the ocean at Obama, the finish line, seemed like the perfect reward.

The starting point, Demachiyanagi. Lots of blue herons.

About Mackerel Highway

This time, I walked the "Sakasaba Kaido" from Kyoto to Obama, Fukui. The start is Demachiyanagi and the finish is Obama. The total length is about 80km, the cumulative elevation is about 2,300m, and the road is relatively higher than the trail.

I walked on Sunday and Monday. After a short conversation with a guy on a gravel bike about 10km into the trail, I didn't see anyone else until I got down to the town of Obama. It felt more like I was just walking down a long road with almost no people around, rather than a mountain trail.

There are not many technically difficult places on the route itself. There are many well-maintained forest roads and paved roads, so there is little worry about getting lost. That is why there is a lot of time "going alone in silence without meeting anyone". This is more effective on the mind than I expected. Even though I thought I was used to being alone, there were many moments when my heart was unsettled by the quietness of the road.

It was really scary, it was like an abandoned village.

Activity Record

DAY 1 | Demachiyanagi - Kuta area (sleeping outdoors)

On the first day, we left Demachiyanagi at 8am as planned. Our destination was the Kuta area, about 40km away. We walked without stopping along the way, and had persimmon seeds and Haribo gummy candies for lunch as we walked. We probably didn't stop for even a minute.


Around Hanase Pass. The climb is surprisingly tough.

Since it was my first time camping out, I expected it would be difficult to find a place to sleep, so I was very conscious of my schedule. After passing Hacchodaira, the trail continued on a gentle downhill course, and since I still had some energy left, I was able to walk comfortably, even jogging along the way.


A beautiful muddy surface


Trees and art found on the trail after Hatchodaira

The search for a place to stay for the night began in the Kuta area, the first day's destination. There was a concern about mountain leeches if we went too far into the mountains, so we walked hoping to find a place where there was still some human presence, preferably under the eaves of a vacant house, but we couldn't find one. Mumbling to ourselves and debating whether to stay here or go a little further, we came across the village fire station and decided to pitch our bivy in the grass opposite. There was a river nearby, the sound of cars occasionally passing by, and the faint light of a street lamp. We managed to find a place that struck that perfect balance of not being too anxious.


Camping right next to this fire station


This is my first camping experience (photo below).
It was a simple setup, combining an OUTDOOR RESEARCH Helium Bivy with a Trail Bum Gnu S Cape. I borrowed the bivy from the owner, and initially I wondered if it would be enough, but just before the trip, the owner strongly recommended that I bring a shelter, so I did. It turned out to be a great decision.

You can put your belongings inside the shelter and it blocks some of the view from outside, so it gives you a completely different sense of security. You can put your face out even when it's raining, and even when the weather is good, I think the shelter will be a very reassuring ally.


Homeless... No, I'm sleeping rough

For dinner, I had a custom UL bento lunch box that I made for the store's 4th anniversary event, plus EAA to help with fatigue, a mini cup of sake, and some snacks. Eating a warm meal made me feel a little less anxious and lonely. However, I was still worried about the sounds around me, and I was scared, so I thought it would just be painful to stay awake, so I went to bed at 7pm. I slept like a log.


Since it was a customization, I forgot to put in a ton of garlic, so the inside of the bivy smelled really bad.

DAY2 | Kuta to Obama (Goal)

I woke up at 4:30 in the morning. I can sleep anywhere, so I slept soundly. I quickly packed up my gear and started walking around 5:00. Maybe it was because of the EAA from the previous day, but my body felt super energetic.
The gloomy air like the boundary between morning and night, the morning dew on the forest, the quiet atmosphere... Walking in the forest at this time of day was indescribably pleasant, and I was able to start walking at a good rhythm.

This day was also about 40km long. However, unlike the first day, only about 20% of the route was on trails. The rest was mostly paved roads.
The last 20km in particular was all on flat roads, making it a daunting journey.


It was a road like a mountain in a foreign country, though I've never been there.


I'm so tired of the road

Sometimes I can walk along humming, but other times I get scared and just want to pass by without looking. It's a constant sense of unease.
On top of that, my stomach was itchy from being eaten by leeches on the first day, and the soles of my feet had not dried completely due to the several river crossings and the muddy surface from the previous day's rain, so the conditions were terrible.
To be honest, I was feeling negative until I reached the pass, but once I got to the pass and finally returned to the trail, I felt a little better. Mountains are fun!! From there, all I had to do was walk, walk, walk to the finish line.


A fairly large fording point


There were lots of signs

As I approached Obama, I felt a conflict in my heart and in my soles.

When you can see the town of Obama, you know there are about 15km left.
But the soles of my feet were at their limit, so I walked around the city clinging to my walking poles.

In the midst of all this, a miraculous encounter occurred!!

As I was walking down a quiet road, a car quietly pulled over to the side of the road and a woman came running out with a bottle of injelly.
They asked me, "Where are you from?" and "Where are you going?" and I didn't immediately understand the situation, so I just said, "Thank you so much!!" and left the place.
I regret not taking a photo with him.
But I was so happy and moved, it had been a long time since I last spoken to someone, and I never expected to encounter such kindness.
So this is what they call a trail angel. I could see a halo around it.


Many thanks.

Goals and a sense of accomplishment

Since this was a project I decided on, no one would blame me no matter what the goal was. But I was going to see it through to the end! Even though the feeling in my feet had gone numb, the burning passion remained in me.

Finally, I saw a sign in the town of Obama that read "Starting Point of Saba Kaido," and I had safely completed the 80km of Saba Kaido.

After you reach the finish line, you can enjoy a meal, a beer, the ocean, and a souvenir shop in Obama, making you feel like you're on a short trip. If you go alone, you can naturally communicate with the people of the town, which is fun.


A 22L backpack filled to the brim with souvenirs


The retro Obama Station


Returning home on a retro bus, I fell asleep within seconds of getting on

Conclusion | After my first solo mountain trip

It was the first solo challenge by a woman. To be honest, I worried a lot of people, and I myself was full of anxiety about whether I could really do it.
However, I think it was a good idea to research as much as I could about the route, equipment, and necessary information, and to be fully prepared when I took on the challenge.
Fortunately, I was surrounded by many mountain mentors who could give me a lot of advice, which was key to my success.


I was alone the whole time I was walking. I got tired of the road, but I never got tired of the scenery or walking. The more I walked, the more the scenery changed, so I felt enriched. On the other hand, no matter how painful or anxious I felt, the only answer to overcome it was to walk. Perhaps it's only when I'm alone that I can clear up the conflicts and doubts I have in my daily life.

While hiking there were many moments when I really wanted to go home, but when I finished I was already thinking about my next mountain climb, just like mountain monkeys.

I'd like to do my best to take on a new challenge on a minor trail somewhere!


Celebrating with the owner on his way from Obama.

Items used

2025/06/05